School is almost over, baseball tournaments at the Little League ball parks are just about wrapped up, and it is almost time to pack the kids in the car and head south to the beach.
Long time readers know about this annual feature; it is a scenic drive to the Alabama Gulf coast along Alabama roads less traveled, featuring some great food, peaceful scenery, very little traffic, and nuggets of Alabama history along the way. Might take a little longer, but for me the trip is one of the best parts. To quote a line from the cab driver in the movie "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles", "all you see on the Interstate is Interstate". Time to hit some of the rural roads in Alabama and leave I-65 for the masses.
By the way, I know some of you prefer the Florida beaches; I will try to write a story like this for those of you bound for Destin or Panama City. But for now, this is for those of you headed south from the Birmingham metro area to Gulf Shores or Orange Beach. Alabama geography, history, and people are my specialties.
Take I-65 south out of Birmingham, and this year lets get off on the Alabama 25 exit, and go west in the direction of Calera and Montevallo. You will go through downtown Calera, and just south of downtown Montevallo on Alabama Highway 25. Just west of Montevallo, you pass through the community of Wilton, which features one police car whose driver is known for pulling over those who drive a little too fast through town; be sure and watch the speed limit.
You will pass the spot where Alabama Highway 139 goes south; note that spot, but for now keep going a couple of miles, and on the left you will see the entrance to Brierfield Ironworks Park. If you time, turn into the park and see Alabama history. In this hollow, beside a wet weather stream that would forever after be known as Furnace Branch, a group of men calling themselves the Bibb County Iron Company built a furnace in 1862. Spurred on by the desire to make a fortune from the South's desperate need for iron for war materials, the company was soon producing, in the words of a contemporary iron founder, "the toughest and most suitable iron for making guns above any other iron in the South." The notoriety for making superior iron so impressed Richmond that in 1863, the Confederate government purchased the ironworks and soon added a second furnace and rolling mill.
Of course, this reputation for making iron did not go unnoticed by Union authorities either. In the early morning hours of March 31, 1865, the Federal Tenth Missouri Cavalry saddled up in Montevallo and dashed to the Brierfield Ironworks. Within minutes, the works were in flames.
You can read more about the park here:
http://www.brierfieldironworks.com/
After spending some time at the park, go back east on Alabama 25, and turn right (south) on Alabama 139 toward Maplesville. Once in Maplesville, veer right onto Alabama 22 and keep going, crossing over U.S. 82. The next community will be Stanton; look on the right for Ebenezer Baptist Church. If you are not spooked by cemeteries, turn right at the church, and wind up the hill. On the right, you will see the Ebenezer Cemetary, where you will see the only remaining evidence of one of Alabama's greatest family tornado disasters. On March 21, 1932, a large tornado killed the mother, father, and six children in the Latham family, who lived in Riderville, just below Stanton. All eight family members are buried at that cemetery; you can see the family grave just past the main entrance. We recently visited the site with one of four children who survived the tornado, Jack Latham, who lives in Columbiana. We will be featuring Mr. Latham's amazing story in our Storm Alert 2006 show.
Head back to Alabama 22, and from the church turn right (in the direction of Selma). One block later, at the only flashing yellow light in Stanton, turn left (there is no road marker, but it is Chilton county road 45). Follow that road a few miles, across Mulberry Creek, and then at the stop sign turn left onto Chilton County road 16. After a few miles, you will wind up at U.S. 82. Turn right onto U.S. 82, in the direction of Montgomery.
After a few miles, you will cross into Autauga county. About one mile after the county line, time for lunch at Jim's Pit Barbeque (it will be on the right). This joint, in my humble opinion, has the best barbeque in the state. Of course, barbeque taste is a very personal thing here in Alabama, but Jim's ranks at the top of my list. And, that is quite an honor since I have been to just about every BBQ joint within 150 miles.
From Jim's, go down U.S. 82 for a mile or so, and you will turn right onto Autauga county road 1. This is a peaceful drive, and after about 10 miles you run into Alabama Highway 14, on which you will turn right, in the direction of Selma. Alabama 14 runs along the northern bank of the Alabama River (U.S. 80 runs along the southern bank). In Selma, keep on Alabama 14 until we run into our old friend Alabama 22. Turn left onto Alabama 22, or Broad Street. If you want, you can follow Broad Street through historic downtown Selma and across the Edmund Pettus Bridge, forever known for "Bloody Sunday" on March 7, 1965 during the civil rights struggle.
There are many other historic sites to see in Selma:
http://tourism.selmaalabama.com
From Selma, we want to head south out of town on Alabama 22, so if you crossed the Alabama River on the Edmund Pettus Bridge, you will need to come back to the point where Alabama 22 heads south from Broad Street. Follow Alabama 22 south out of Selma. If you have time, turn right at the sign and head to Alabama's first capital, Old Cawhaba:
http://www.cahawba.com/
Stay on Alabama 22 into Safford, where 22 ends and merges with Alabama 5, which used to be the main highway from Birmingham to Mobile before I-65 and U.S. 31. Stay on Alabama 5 into Wilcox county.
If you have time and want to meet some of the sweetest people in the world, turn right onto Wilcox county road 28 at the community of Alberta, which takes you to Gee's Bend in the Alabama River, one of the most isolated places in Alabama (surrounded by the river). The old ferry from Gees Bend to Camden is supposed to be operational again, but the real story is the people in Gee's Bend. Read this great article from the L.A. Times a few years ago, which won a Pulitizer Prize:
http://www.pulitzer.org/year/2000/feature-writing/works/
The ladies who make the quilts down there have become quite famous. If you go into Gee's Bend, Wilcox county road 28 loops through and you will wind up back at Alabama 5 at Alberta.
Turn left onto Alabama 5 and head south, and after about 5 to 8 miles turn south on Alabama 28, which will take you across the Millers Ferry Dam on the Alabama River, and into downtown Camden. The drive from Gee's Bend to Camden is almost 45 minutes, although as the crow flies Gee's Bend is only a few miles away.
In downtown Camden, at the Courthouse Square, turn left onto Alabama Highway 41, heading south. Still hungry? J.B. Elliott and I recommend Dallas Soul Food, which is on Alabama 41 about 1/2 mile south of the Courthouse.
Follow Alabama 41 for about 30 miles. You will think you are in the Great Smoky Mountains on that twisting road up and down hills. Hard to believe you are in southwest Alabama, but there are indeed some nice hills in south Wilcox and northern Monroe counties.
Alabama 41 goes right into downtown Monroeville, a lovely south Alabama community, and the home of Harper Lee. The two-act version of "To Kill A Mockingbird" is performed in the Old Courthouse in Monroeville by a local amateur cast now through May 21. Too bad the production doesn't run into June; it is excllent. Our own Bill Murray was able to be in this play a few years ago. You can learn more about what to see in Monroeville here:
http://www.tokillamockingbird.com/
In Monroeville, Alabama 41 will merge with Alabama 21, and we will stay on Alabama 21 south from Monroeville, in the direction of Atmore.
I should mention you will probably still see lots of damage from Hurricane Ivan in the general area from Camden south through Monroeville. Wilcox and Monroe counties were hit hard by the big storm September 16 of last year.
South of Monroeville on Alabama 21, you will pass through Frisco City, and down the road at Uriah, veer right onto Alabama Highway 59. This road becomes Gulf Shores Parkway south of I-65, and is used by thousands and thousands of people. But, the northern end of Alabama 59 is a beautiful road that runs just east of the Mobile Delta, and a very pretty drive. Not many cars, and some great scenery. You will pass through Stockton, and then south of I-65 you will greet the masses that didn't use the "roads less traveled".
Alabama 59 runs south through Bay Minnette, Loxley, and Robertsdale. Once you get to Foley, I suggest checking out the "Home of Throwed Rolls" at Lamberts Cafe, which is near the big outlet mall. If you come during peak hours expect a long wait, but the kids will love this place. And, the food is great and not too expensive. And yes, they really do throw the rolls.
Alabama 59 comes to a dead end at the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf Shores Public Beach. You can turn left on Alabama 182 and head to Orange Beach, or turn right and head west.
By the way, if you have never been to Fort Morgan, you should take some time to check it out. Fort Morgan has been guarding the entrance to Mobile Bay since 1834; learn more here:
http://www.preserveala.org/fortmorgan.html
To get to Fort Morgan, turn right onto Alabama 180 (NOT 182) as you head south on Alabama 59 in Gulf Shores. Alabama 180 winds up at Fort Morgan. You can even ride the ferry over to Dauphin Island if you want and see Fort Gaines.
So, there you go. Take some time and enjoy your ride to Alabama's beautiful Gulf coast. Need some help with maps? The new Google map service is great: http://maps.google.com/
Enjoy your trip and take some good pictures!
Long time readers know about this annual feature; it is a scenic drive to the Alabama Gulf coast along Alabama roads less traveled, featuring some great food, peaceful scenery, very little traffic, and nuggets of Alabama history along the way. Might take a little longer, but for me the trip is one of the best parts. To quote a line from the cab driver in the movie "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles", "all you see on the Interstate is Interstate". Time to hit some of the rural roads in Alabama and leave I-65 for the masses.
By the way, I know some of you prefer the Florida beaches; I will try to write a story like this for those of you bound for Destin or Panama City. But for now, this is for those of you headed south from the Birmingham metro area to Gulf Shores or Orange Beach. Alabama geography, history, and people are my specialties.
Take I-65 south out of Birmingham, and this year lets get off on the Alabama 25 exit, and go west in the direction of Calera and Montevallo. You will go through downtown Calera, and just south of downtown Montevallo on Alabama Highway 25. Just west of Montevallo, you pass through the community of Wilton, which features one police car whose driver is known for pulling over those who drive a little too fast through town; be sure and watch the speed limit.
You will pass the spot where Alabama Highway 139 goes south; note that spot, but for now keep going a couple of miles, and on the left you will see the entrance to Brierfield Ironworks Park. If you time, turn into the park and see Alabama history. In this hollow, beside a wet weather stream that would forever after be known as Furnace Branch, a group of men calling themselves the Bibb County Iron Company built a furnace in 1862. Spurred on by the desire to make a fortune from the South's desperate need for iron for war materials, the company was soon producing, in the words of a contemporary iron founder, "the toughest and most suitable iron for making guns above any other iron in the South." The notoriety for making superior iron so impressed Richmond that in 1863, the Confederate government purchased the ironworks and soon added a second furnace and rolling mill.
Of course, this reputation for making iron did not go unnoticed by Union authorities either. In the early morning hours of March 31, 1865, the Federal Tenth Missouri Cavalry saddled up in Montevallo and dashed to the Brierfield Ironworks. Within minutes, the works were in flames.
You can read more about the park here:
http://www.brierfieldironworks.com/
After spending some time at the park, go back east on Alabama 25, and turn right (south) on Alabama 139 toward Maplesville. Once in Maplesville, veer right onto Alabama 22 and keep going, crossing over U.S. 82. The next community will be Stanton; look on the right for Ebenezer Baptist Church. If you are not spooked by cemeteries, turn right at the church, and wind up the hill. On the right, you will see the Ebenezer Cemetary, where you will see the only remaining evidence of one of Alabama's greatest family tornado disasters. On March 21, 1932, a large tornado killed the mother, father, and six children in the Latham family, who lived in Riderville, just below Stanton. All eight family members are buried at that cemetery; you can see the family grave just past the main entrance. We recently visited the site with one of four children who survived the tornado, Jack Latham, who lives in Columbiana. We will be featuring Mr. Latham's amazing story in our Storm Alert 2006 show.
Head back to Alabama 22, and from the church turn right (in the direction of Selma). One block later, at the only flashing yellow light in Stanton, turn left (there is no road marker, but it is Chilton county road 45). Follow that road a few miles, across Mulberry Creek, and then at the stop sign turn left onto Chilton County road 16. After a few miles, you will wind up at U.S. 82. Turn right onto U.S. 82, in the direction of Montgomery.
After a few miles, you will cross into Autauga county. About one mile after the county line, time for lunch at Jim's Pit Barbeque (it will be on the right). This joint, in my humble opinion, has the best barbeque in the state. Of course, barbeque taste is a very personal thing here in Alabama, but Jim's ranks at the top of my list. And, that is quite an honor since I have been to just about every BBQ joint within 150 miles.
From Jim's, go down U.S. 82 for a mile or so, and you will turn right onto Autauga county road 1. This is a peaceful drive, and after about 10 miles you run into Alabama Highway 14, on which you will turn right, in the direction of Selma. Alabama 14 runs along the northern bank of the Alabama River (U.S. 80 runs along the southern bank). In Selma, keep on Alabama 14 until we run into our old friend Alabama 22. Turn left onto Alabama 22, or Broad Street. If you want, you can follow Broad Street through historic downtown Selma and across the Edmund Pettus Bridge, forever known for "Bloody Sunday" on March 7, 1965 during the civil rights struggle.
There are many other historic sites to see in Selma:
http://tourism.selmaalabama.com
From Selma, we want to head south out of town on Alabama 22, so if you crossed the Alabama River on the Edmund Pettus Bridge, you will need to come back to the point where Alabama 22 heads south from Broad Street. Follow Alabama 22 south out of Selma. If you have time, turn right at the sign and head to Alabama's first capital, Old Cawhaba:
http://www.cahawba.com/
Stay on Alabama 22 into Safford, where 22 ends and merges with Alabama 5, which used to be the main highway from Birmingham to Mobile before I-65 and U.S. 31. Stay on Alabama 5 into Wilcox county.
If you have time and want to meet some of the sweetest people in the world, turn right onto Wilcox county road 28 at the community of Alberta, which takes you to Gee's Bend in the Alabama River, one of the most isolated places in Alabama (surrounded by the river). The old ferry from Gees Bend to Camden is supposed to be operational again, but the real story is the people in Gee's Bend. Read this great article from the L.A. Times a few years ago, which won a Pulitizer Prize:
http://www.pulitzer.org/year/2000/feature-writing/works/
The ladies who make the quilts down there have become quite famous. If you go into Gee's Bend, Wilcox county road 28 loops through and you will wind up back at Alabama 5 at Alberta.
Turn left onto Alabama 5 and head south, and after about 5 to 8 miles turn south on Alabama 28, which will take you across the Millers Ferry Dam on the Alabama River, and into downtown Camden. The drive from Gee's Bend to Camden is almost 45 minutes, although as the crow flies Gee's Bend is only a few miles away.
In downtown Camden, at the Courthouse Square, turn left onto Alabama Highway 41, heading south. Still hungry? J.B. Elliott and I recommend Dallas Soul Food, which is on Alabama 41 about 1/2 mile south of the Courthouse.
Follow Alabama 41 for about 30 miles. You will think you are in the Great Smoky Mountains on that twisting road up and down hills. Hard to believe you are in southwest Alabama, but there are indeed some nice hills in south Wilcox and northern Monroe counties.
Alabama 41 goes right into downtown Monroeville, a lovely south Alabama community, and the home of Harper Lee. The two-act version of "To Kill A Mockingbird" is performed in the Old Courthouse in Monroeville by a local amateur cast now through May 21. Too bad the production doesn't run into June; it is excllent. Our own Bill Murray was able to be in this play a few years ago. You can learn more about what to see in Monroeville here:
http://www.tokillamockingbird.com/
In Monroeville, Alabama 41 will merge with Alabama 21, and we will stay on Alabama 21 south from Monroeville, in the direction of Atmore.
I should mention you will probably still see lots of damage from Hurricane Ivan in the general area from Camden south through Monroeville. Wilcox and Monroe counties were hit hard by the big storm September 16 of last year.
South of Monroeville on Alabama 21, you will pass through Frisco City, and down the road at Uriah, veer right onto Alabama Highway 59. This road becomes Gulf Shores Parkway south of I-65, and is used by thousands and thousands of people. But, the northern end of Alabama 59 is a beautiful road that runs just east of the Mobile Delta, and a very pretty drive. Not many cars, and some great scenery. You will pass through Stockton, and then south of I-65 you will greet the masses that didn't use the "roads less traveled".
Alabama 59 runs south through Bay Minnette, Loxley, and Robertsdale. Once you get to Foley, I suggest checking out the "Home of Throwed Rolls" at Lamberts Cafe, which is near the big outlet mall. If you come during peak hours expect a long wait, but the kids will love this place. And, the food is great and not too expensive. And yes, they really do throw the rolls.
Alabama 59 comes to a dead end at the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf Shores Public Beach. You can turn left on Alabama 182 and head to Orange Beach, or turn right and head west.
By the way, if you have never been to Fort Morgan, you should take some time to check it out. Fort Morgan has been guarding the entrance to Mobile Bay since 1834; learn more here:
http://www.preserveala.org/fortmorgan.html
To get to Fort Morgan, turn right onto Alabama 180 (NOT 182) as you head south on Alabama 59 in Gulf Shores. Alabama 180 winds up at Fort Morgan. You can even ride the ferry over to Dauphin Island if you want and see Fort Gaines.
So, there you go. Take some time and enjoy your ride to Alabama's beautiful Gulf coast. Need some help with maps? The new Google map service is great: http://maps.google.com/
Enjoy your trip and take some good pictures!